The Amalfi Coast

Try to remember the most beautiful place you have ever visited – recall each glorious sensation as you relive the memory of the scenery, the tastes and the sounds…now multiply all of those sensations by a thousand, and you won’t even get close to understanding what makes the Amalfi Coast one of the world’s most extraordinary destinations.

If you are taking your first trip to Italy and your destination is the Amalfi Coast, it is akin to going on a blind date and finding the perfect man or woman waiting for you in paradise.  Italy, so varied in all its regions, is unlike any other European destination.  You will be so seduced by the perfection of the views, the delicious foods, the warmth of the people that you will declare unequivocally that you have truly found your spiritual home.


Sorrento – Positano – Capri – Amalfi – Ravello


  1. Where to stay
  2. Sorrento
  3. Positano
  4. Capri
  5. Amalfi
  6. Ravello
  7. Taste is everything
  8. Best things to do

1. Where to stay


a stunning picture of the Amalfi Coast at sunset

Mythology tells us that Hercules fell in love with a beautiful nymph named Amalfi.  She tragically died young.  In his grief, Hercules searched all of the earth to find the most beautiful place in which to entomb her body.  It is this breath-taking peninsula, sandwiched between the Bay of Naples and the Tyrrhenian Sea that promised him the most beautiful resting place for his beloved and thus gave this little piece of heaven its name – Amalfi.

Making up part of the Campania region of south-west Italy, the Amalfi Coast is a rugged yet sublime peninsula.  The proportion of the mountains and hills, rolling through this coastline, draw unparalleled views along vertiginous roads that weave in and out of the cliff tops.   Be clever enough to let anyone else drive the route from Naples to Vietri Sul Mare so you can sit back and imbibe the ever-changing blues of the sea, stretching out from coves and beaches to the distant azure horizon.

The landscape you will pass on your journey to Sorrento and further to Positano, Amalfi and Ravello appear unchanged from what you might expect to have seen hundreds of years ago.  The sensitivity and intelligence employed by the Amalfatini natives in their preservation of traditional dwellings and in the development of exquisite new-built villas are reflected in a region that is utterly devoid of ugly construction.

Purple cushioned cream furniture rests tastefully on the balcony area at Gulia Villa in the Amalfi Coast.

In fact, when you look at the villas near the Amalfi Coast you will find beautifully appointed properties, all with the most modern facilities with terraces and swimming pools that capture unparalleled views over the Tyrrhenian Sea against a backdrop of vineyards and orchards of rolling citrus groves.  These pungent Femminello lemon groves with their naturally sweet tasting fruit are sliced and eaten by locals who have given them the name ‘pane’ meaning bread.  For hundreds of years, these aged trees clothed the hills in a tapestry of dark green foliage with splashes of oranges and yellows – a photographer’s dream when in blossom or laden with fruits.

The topography of the Amalfi peninsula has played its part in the urban developments of its towns and villages.  Villages seem to be literally sewn into cliff-sides, sweeping down to beaches in a series of miraculous terraced constructs.  These bursts of urbanisation, are offset by the wonderful agricultural countryside bursting with vineyards that employ the Greek tradition of using fruit trees to support trellised vines.  This practice introduced to the region centuries ago and singular only to the Campania region of Italy sees mature orchards laden with fruit, draped in ripening vines.

Find The Best Villas On The Amalfi Coast

Sitting in a private Italian villa, with your pool perched on a promontory overlooking the sea is perhaps the very best way to enjoy the Amalfi Coast.  The stylish bustle of the towns and villages are wonderful to dip in and out of, but it is in your own personal private home that you can merge with the true spirit of Italy before slipping on your sexy, stylish clothes to step into the Italian way of life.


2. Sorrento


Never too far from these private villas are towns and villages the largest of them being Sorrento.  This cosmopolitan town with an energetic vibe has an excellent choice of good restaurants ranging from more formal dining at the two Michelin star Don Alfonso 1890 to the wonderful beach shack-chic of Soul &   sh at Marina Grande.

Here you can order a delicious lunch of Scialatelli a short tagliatelle usually served with a seafood sauce.  The name is deriving from the Neapolitan word “scialare” to enjoy and “padella” meaning frying pan.

As you taste the freshest of fish and divine sweet treats you can look out across the bay to Mt Vesuvius and plan your trip to the archaeological wonder of Pompeii and Herculaneum.

In addition to the profusion of seafood landed each day along the coastline, the other great culinary experience on the Amalfi Coast is, of course, the humble pizza.  I say ‘humble’, but until you have sampled the lightest, freshest pizzas made in open kitchens and flash cooked in clay furnaces, you can’t begin to appreciate these melting marvels of simplicity.  For a casual lunch with a glass of red, is there anything better?

Cheers with a glass of red wine on the Amalfi Coast

Sorrento offers a quaint weave of winding streets and alleyways that hide intimate restaurants that create a naturally romantic ambience or gravitate to Piazza Tasso and indulge in some Sfogliatella, a flaky pastry shell, filled with a lemon cream with dried fruits accompanied by a faultless Italian coffee.  This square is the epicentre of Sorrento where you can idle away an evening with a chilled Lemoncello and watch the stylish locals drift by.

one of the many quaint sidestreets of Sorrento

There are a number of historic buildings and ancient churches for the culturally minded, and they always seem to be a saint or two being honoured at a local festival where speciality dishes associated with the festival are served:  Ndunderi, a type of gnocchi is served in honour of Santa Trofiemena or Sarchiapone, a long-stuffed pumpkin that resembles cannelloni is a dish unique to this region.


3. Positano


Your next destination Positano – probably the brightest jewel on the dazzling necklace that is the Amalfi Coast.

Positano started life as a fishing village but has morphed (without growing excessively) to a sophisticated and extremely fashionable urban wonder draped above the pebble beaches along the coastline.  The drive from Sorrento to Positano known as Nastro Azzurro (Blue Ribbon) is a feat of engineering.  The locals drive these roads as though they have a date with “destino” and it is hair-raising to see them swish by with such confidence.  Taking your time on this drive allows you to capture the wonder of one of the greatest drives in the world.  You will also get to see the famous Sirenuse rocks where ancient myths tell us that the sirens, devilishly beautiful women, sang and played music to entrance sailors (most notably Ulysses) luring them to their doom.

Beautiful Positano on the Amalfi Coast

As you arrive in Positano, you will leave your car at one of the parking areas at the top of the cliff.  Dressed in your chic best but with a stylish shoe that can navigate hills and cobbles, you can enjoy some of the world’s most romantic Amalfi Coast restaurants built into the cliffs of this golden, red and bougainvillaea bedecked marvel.  Arriving at sunset, nothing will ever prepare you for Positano – a golden, yellow profusion of buildings stacked into a cliff-side looking out over a shimmering sea.

Go and enjoy a sophisticated aperitivo on the terrace of Hotel Il San Pietro, followed by a Michelin starred dinner in their restaurant Zass or dine at Le Sirenuse Hotel, where winding steps will guide you to a divine restaurant tucked into the cliff.  Alternatively, wander down along the cascading narrow streets that weave through the town and dine by the water in one of the lively and bustling restaurants.  Delicious Risotto con Agrumi e Gamberetti – a prawn and lemon risotto unite the sea and land in each dreamy mouthful. Arguably, one of the best things to do in Positano is to eat.  Lots.


4. Capri


For a day trip to remember, you can use Positano’s hydrofoil to take the 50 minute trip to the Isle of Capri. This 4 square mile island has a concentration of designer shopping, glorious restaurants, pretty beaches and the world-famous Blue Grotto.

Faraglioni Rocks Capri

A day spent on Capri sunbathing, dining, shopping is a must on any Amalfi Coast itinerary.  Breaking away from one of the gloriously secluded Amalfi Coast vacation rentals, this trip will offer a feast for the senses. 

The Funicolare di Capri (the funicular railway) will take you from the main port of Capri to the town of Anacapri saving time and energy while delighting the child within you.


5. Amalfi


The next stop on our coastal odyssey is the town of Amalfi.  This town with a history dating back to the 9th century boasts the Arab-Norman cathedral of Sant’Andrea with its striped Byzantine façade.  This piece of architecture reminds us of the history of this peninsula that has links with Arabia, Africa, Greece and long-forgotten Italian principalities.  The cultural influences of each of these countries or continents are still present in some of the historic sites, the agriculture and in the recipes that are still cooked in the Amalfatini kitchens.

Amalfi, with its wonderful array of restaurants and cafes, is an ideal base to explore the lively beaches along its coastline, travel into the hills to make a trip through the forests, take a walk along the 8km hike known as “The Path of the Gods” from Bomerano to Positano.  Take a boat trip along the coast and marvel at the peninsula from this perspective.  There are so many activities for all tastes.

Italian Gelato, the best!

Amalfi is a wonderful town to visit with teenagers or younger children as it has very family-orientated beaches, with enough variety of restaurants and cafes and water activities to keep the most active little person pleased.  Added to which, the local gelato will act as a salve to cool even the most frazzled temperatures!


6. Ravello


From the lovely town of Amalfi, the next stop is the resort town of Ravello.  At 365 metres above the Tyrrhenian Sea, the views from Ravello are extraordinary.  With its own unique history, this relaxed town is renowned for its lovely restaurants and spectacular gardens.

Villa Rufolo, Ravello on the Amalfi Coast

Visit the Villa Rufolo to see how man and nature can work in harmony to create gardens of unique beauty that are terraced to capture the surrounding views.  For decades, this pretty town has welcomed artists, writers and musicians, namely Joan Miro, Leonard Bernstein, Virginia Woolf, Grieg, Graham Greene.  It is easy to understand how the artist within all of us could so easily be moved by such resplendent beauty.


7. Taste is Everything


Taste in Italy is everything …. And by this, I mean the actual pleasure of tasting beautiful natural ingredients to the pleasure of wearing a luxurious piece of clothing.  It might be a simple tomato pizza or a plain white shirt but once you have experienced the style with which Italians create everything you will truly understand what is meant by Style and Substance.  It is easy to comprehend why Jacqueline Onassis, Greta Garbo and many other stylish celebrities were drawn to this peninsula.

Where food is concerned, the Italians use what is grown and produced locally.  Thus you find that each region in Italy is famous for specific foods.  Rejoice that you are in the Campania region as you are in the mozzarella capital of Italy.  The Campania Buffalo Mozzarella is revered all over Italy was known as ‘white gold’ for its superiority to other regional varieties.  Whether you consume it fresh with the local piquant San Marzano tomatoes and a flutter of basil leaves or devour it in all its melted unctuous glory on a pizza, you will fall under its dreamy spell.

Kizette villa near the Amalfi Coast over-looking Positano

I’ve been fortunate over the years to stay at a number of beautiful villas near the Amalfi Coast and have had boxes of local fresh produce dropped to my door each day.  San Marzano tomatoes, Sfusato Amalfitano or Femminello lemons, a local bread made with strong flour, the green richness of the local virgin olive oils, a variety of fresh herbs from the hillsides and of course the Campania Buffalo Mozzarella.  These simple ingredients coupled with a fresh local white wine or deep red will provide you with the most divinely casual lunch while you idle away an afternoon by your pool, hypnotised by the aquamarine and silver of the Tyrrhenian Sea below.


8. Best things to do


Sunset Cruise – The best way to unwind from a day of sightseeing? Embark from any town along the Amalfi Coast and let us show you the most memorable sunset in coastal Italy. Admire the unique color palette of Positano and Amalfi, and follow the sun disappearing behind Capri painting the sky with shades of orange and pink. Enjoy this private show with a glass of Prosecco to make it perfect. This private cruise can be fully customized. Tour includes pick up and drop off at the dock from Positano, Praiano, Amalfi or Sorrento.


Boat Tour of the Amalfi Coast – There are many fun things to do on the UNESCO Amalfi Coast, but none surpass a day-long, private boat excursion. You will cruise leisurely along the coastline as you admire the awe-inspiring views. Your captain will take you through the heart of the Amalfi Coast – to the best coves to swim and snorkel, to hidden caves decorated with stalactites and accessible only by sea, past pebbled beaches, natural rock formations, Roman ruins and important natural and historical sites. You will pass picturesque seaside villages along the way and you can stop at the village of your choice to browse the cobble stone alleyways, colorful buildings and boutiques lined with perfumes, linens and more. Hungry? The captain will pull the boat up to one of the quaint family operated restaurants on the beach so that you can dine dockside and taste the local gastronomy. This is an excursion that is definitely not to be missed!


Boat Tour of Capri – Don’t miss this private and personalized boat excursion where you will bypass the tourist crowds and experience the real Capri – an island of enchanting beauty, clear water and one-of-a-kind experiences. You will circumnavigate the entire island, admiring it’s beauty from the sea. You will visit the famous grottos and boat through the island’s most famous symbol: “I Faraglioni” Rock Formations. Throughout the day the boat will stop in various inlets and lagoons and you will have the opportunity to swim in the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean Sea. If you would like time to visit the island on foot, the captain will drop you off, giving you leisure time on land, as well as insider suggestions on the best things to do. Simply meet him back at the port when you are finished.


Half Day Tour of Pompeii – Following the eruption of the Volcano Mount Vesuvius in the year 79 A.D., Pompei laid buried and forgotten for hundreds of years. The town is high on the list of Wonders of the World and the excavations begun in the 18th Century are still being carried out today. We can provide of an authorized guide who will take you slowly through some of the ancient streets of Pompeii where you can see Baths, Forums and Villas built by the prosperous Roman in the year 80 B.C. Marvel at the fabulously preserved Frescos which adorned the walls and floors of the Villas. Even if your interests do not lay in history, this is an archaeological site that you will surely be impressed by. Tour includes transport in an air conditioned car or minivan, pick up and drop off at the villa, 2 hour private guided tour.


Half Day Tour of Herculeaneum – Herculaneum was destroyed along with Pompei in 79 A.D. and rediscovered in 1709. It was a residential town without Pompeii’s commercial importance, surrounded by the villas of the wealthy Romans. When the catastrophe of 79 A.D. occurred Herculaneum was submerged under a torrent of mud and lava that hardened into a soft tuff (a kind of porous rock) that preserved many of the timber features and household objects which can be seen today. A large portion of the old Herculaneum is still buried under the modern town and even today excavations are going on to discover what treasures lie buried under the rock, to the extent that some families are being rehoused so work can continue. Tour includes transport in air conditioned car or minivan, pick up and drop off at the villa, 2 hour private guided tour.


Full Day Tour of Pompeii & Herculaneum – Drive along the Sorrento Coast to Pompeii. Visit of the excavation of this ancient commercial city, unique in the world. You can see aspects of life 2000 years ago, preserved by the volcanic ash that was thrown from Vesuvius in the great eruption of 79 A.D. Pompei was only rediscovered in the 18th century. In the last few years every possible effort has been concentrated on restoration and excavation, continually bringing light to new and sensational discoveries. Herculaneum was considered a seaside resort and port where wealthy Romans came to holiday. This resort was destroyed by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 A.D. however not by the ashes and lava as Pompeii, but by a torrent of mud flooding down from the slopes of the Volcano. Having solidified, it became ‘tuffa’ which offered the best possible defence from atmospheric agents for centuries. For this reason houses, wooden elements, food stuffs and fabrics are preserved intact thus offering a unique vision of private life in Roman times. Tour includes transport in air conditioned car or minivan, pick up and drop off at the villa, 4 hour private guided .


Half Day Tour of Mount Vesuvius – Vesuvius dominates the Bay of Naples. It is the only active volcano on the mainland of Europe. The slopes were once covered with vineyard and woods and provided an innocent looking backdrop for the bustling towns of Pompei and Herculaneum below. We will take you to within 1.000 m of the top of Vesuvius and from here you can walk to the very top and admire the splendid panoramic view across the Bay. From blackened crater rises a single plume of smoke, a reminder that the volcano is only sleeping for now! Tour includes transport in air conditioned car or minivan, pick up and drop off at the villa, 2 hour private guided tour


Full Day Tour of Pompeii & Vesuvius – Visit the excavation of the ancient commercial city of Pompeii, where you can see aspects of life dating 2,000 years back, preserved by the volcanic ash that was thrown from Vesuvius in the great eruption of 79 A.D. Pompei was only rediscovered in the 18th century. Ongoing restoration and excavation, continuously leads to new and sensational discoveries. Following the visit to the archaeological site, we take a spectacular drive through green orchards and lava flows up to 3,000 feet on Mount Vesuvius. A path continues to the edge of the crater where a guide takes you around, pointing out the “fumaroles” which reveal that the volcano is still active. It is the only active Volcano on the main land of Europe. Do not expect a bubbling pot full of lava like it was back in 1944, now there is only a thin stream of rising vapour. Tour includes transport in air conditioned car or minivan, pick up and drop off at the villa, 4 hour private guided tour.


Half Day or Full Day Tour of the Amalfi Coast – The “Amalfi drive” is said to be the most spectacular in Europe and from Sorrento, the winding cliff top road offers breathtaking panoramic views at every turn, and every bend revealing a more magnificent view: olives and lemon groves, pines and cypresses cling to the mountains, enchanting, unspoiled villages perch on the steep slopes, the most famous being Positano, Amalfi and Ravello. Not to be missed in Amalfi is the Cathedral dedicated to Saint Andrew dating back to the 9th century and the Villa Rufolo gardens in Ravello, immortalised by Richard Wagner as the magic garden of Klingsor in his Parsifal. Tour includes transport in air conditioned car or minivan, pick up and drop off at the villa, half day tour visits 2 villages / full day tour visits 3 villages.


Half Day Vesuvius Wine Tour – Spend a day delving into the stunning views and wines the Vesuvius has to offer, and learn everything about the famous Lacryma Christi DOC wine. Legend has it that the Gulf of Naples was created from a piece of Heaven ripped by Lucifer. The vines in the area were then given divine inspiration to grow by the tears shed by Christ – thus the name Lacryma Christi, “tears of Christ” in latin. A luxury vehicle will pick you up from your villa and accompany you to the winery where you will enjoy a tour of vineyards with a full view of the Vesuvius, followed by a lunch featuring typical local products accompanied by a tasting of the many wines produced on the estate Tour includes transport in air conditioned car or minivan, pick up & drop off at the villa, admission to the winery, gourmet lunch with wine paring.


Half Day Amalfi Hills Wine Tour – The area surrounding the village of Tramonti, on the “Monti Lattari” overlooking Amalfi, is comprised of many hilltops all of which contribute to create different terroirs as the sea-winds change from field to field. This, combined with century-old vines, enables the creation of wines which have nothing to envy to Supertuscans and the Piedmont Barolos. Enjoy a day basking in the stunning views of terraced vineyards sloping towards the Amalfi coast, learning the wine-making techniques used for centuries and sampling delicious wines. A luxury vehicle will pick you up from your villa and accompany you to the winery where you will enjoy a tour of vineyards and the cellar, followed by a homemade lunch featuring typical local specialties. The estate owners will be eager to let you sample their best wines and enrich your visit with family anecdotes.


Wine Tasting & Cooking Classes – The Amalfi Coast offers mouth-watering cuisine and exceptional wines: so why not enjoy both on the same day, learning how to prepare the first and sampling the latter? During your day, you will learn how to prepare a typical local meal featuring 5 courses (starters, first course with hand-made pasta, main course, cheese with salami and homemade dessert), representing a typical Italian family style meal. During lunch you will taste three DOC Riserva wines and later enjoy a complete tour of the estate and farm, which also produces its own bacon, sausages, vegetables, cakes, fruit and chestnuts. An extraordinary 360° hands-on wine and food experience in the midst of the stunning Amalfi Coast scenery. Tour includes transport, pick up and drop off at the villa, hands on cookery class, lunch, guided tour of the estate’s wines, tour of vineyards and cellars.


Half Day Gastonomic Food Tour in Sorrento – Spend half a day driving along the charming Sorrentino coast, with stops to taste some iconic local food and drinks and experience making the original Neapolitan pizza, hands-on! Your day will start with a walk through a 200-year-old lemon grove, taste the sugary lemons, some freshly squeezed lemonade, and orange and olive oil sprinkled on freshly-baked bread. Then visit a small dairy farm to learn about the different cheese-making techniques. Finally, taste the delicious finished products, accompanied – of course – by a generous glass of wine. You will transfer to a local family-run restaurant where you will learn how to knead, press, toss, top and bake the dough while laughing and enjoying the company of the knowledgeable and witty hosts. Eat your unique pizza creation followed by a creamy espresso and a homemade dessert. By the end of your tour you will feel truly satisfied, after a day filled with
food and laughter, and memories that will stay with you forever.


Half Day Class: Lemons – Treat yourself to an immersive experience that will equally stimulate your eyes, nose, and taste buds. Your private driver picks you up at your villa and drives you to a family-owned Ranch, in the surroundings of Sorrento. This glorious estate is considered the unofficial Amalfi Coast Food Ambassador, and the owners – 4th generation – are proud to share with you the bountiful fruits this blessed soil can offer. Start your day by learning the life cycle of the famous Sorrentino lemon, from seed to fruit. Then put on your apron and your cap, and a professional chef will teach you the numerous uses of this unexpectedly versatile ingredient in the kitchen. The class includes the preparation of some appetizers, hand-made fresh pasta, a main course and a dessert all using the Sorrentino lemon. At the end of your class, take a seat and enjoy the food you have prepared, topping it all off with a Limoncello tasting.


Conclusion


The Amalfi Coast has been a significant romantic destination for travellers for centuries.  And time spent here in your private villa, where you can venture forth to amble along narrow streets, delve into the history of Pompeii and Herculaneum, hop on a hydrofoil to explore the peninsula or go further afield to visit the islands of Capri or Ischia, is the basis for the holiday experience of a lifetime.  Regardless of how busy it gets at high season, there is a languor in how the Italians approach life. For more Italian destinations see our Villas in Venice.

There is always time for a chat, courtly manners still prevail, and you will always be Bella signora or l’uomo gentile …. You will feel cherished by the friendly and open-hearted way the Italians will welcome you to their world.  All of this graceful charm is wrapped up in the most breath-taking and stylish of packages.   Andiamo!!!

About Mairead Moriarty

Born and raised in Co Kerry, lived in London, New York, San Francisco, Dublin. Owner of one very battered suitcase, a well-worn passport and a million memories.

It seems very fitting for a travel writer that my surname translates as ‘Skilled Navigator’. Apart from an occasion when, aged 3, I got lost in a Supermarket in Tralee, I have managed to live up to my name!

Curiosity is probably the driver that has sent me on magical mystery tours around the world. I want to ‘feel’ a place. I want all my senses to be engaged: from the history and geography that has influenced a country or city, the arts and achievements of its natives, anything and everything really.

Regardless of whether I am on a local train travelling through Morocco, or poking around in Marconi’s study in Bologna or on a canal boat weaving through the heart of the English countryside, the same rules apply - ask questions, talk to locals, eat what they eat, sit quietly with nature and simply be.

Assimilate as much as is possible so as to understand the soul of a place. That is my passion. That is the compass by which I navigate.

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